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Long-Distance Walks with Mark Moxon

Taman Negara: Day 1: Into the Jungle

Bumbun Kumbang
The luxurious hide at Bumbun Kumbang

The trek into the jungle was pure hell. I'd set my sights on the lodge at Kuala Perkai, some 28km from park headquarters, as a good place to get away from it all, and reckoned that two days' walking, one of 11km (staying the night in a hide called Bumbun Kumbang) and one of 17km, would be fairly acceptable. How little I knew of the rigours of hardcore tropical jungle; the first day took a little over five-and-a-half hours of hard slog, and the second a whopping nine hours.

Mark enjoying a cup of tea in Keniam Lodge
Enjoying a solitary cup of tea in spooky out-of-season Keniam Lodge
Sungai Trenggan from Keniam Lodge
Sungai Trenggan from Keniam Lodge

1 Hides are so called because they are perched high up on stilts, affording a good view of a grassy patch which wildlife frequents only when nobody is in the hide, of course. It wasn't as pleasant as the fishing lodge, but it served its purpose as a break in the walk, and it did have a pretty view.